Tailoring2018-08-28T17:04:09+00:00

BESPOKE TAILORING

Our roots lie with an adventurous tailor some 80 years ago who hung from rocky mountain faces catching his escapades on camera. Where our ready-to-wear pieces borrow from the dichotomy in this man’s personality, our tailoring is an ode to the classic techniques and structural manipulation of the bespoke garments he created.

WHY BESPOKE?

Some men that say they don’t like wearing suits really mean they don’t like wearing bad suits. The only way to experience what a suit should be like is to have one made especially for you. A bespoke suit conforms to your shape, your posture and your lifestyle.

First impressions are important and are still irrationally led by what we wear and how we hold ourselves.

A good suit will help you make positive first impressions but can only be achieved by the manipulation of a bespoke pattern made exclusively for you.

JOHANN SCHNEIDER TO JENNY SCHWARZ

This dramatic shot of Jenny’s great-grandfather, Johann Schneider, was taken in ‘the chimney’ or ‘nel camino’ of the Cinque Torre Italian mountain range. Italy has long been associated with fine, family-run ateliers in the suit business and we have partnered with one such long-standing family who work from a small town in Northern Italy. They work with well-known Savile Row tailors and high-end designer labels.

For those clients that are new to bespoke suiting, their first encounter is highly likely to be for their wedding. A wedding calls for an extra-special suit and not one you’d wear to an office. For bespoke veterans, this might be an opportunity to become more daring in both choice of cloth and style details.

JOHANN SCHNEIDER TO JENNY SCHWARZ

This dramatic shot of Jenny’s great-grandfather, Johann Schneider, was taken in ‘the chimney’ or ‘nel camino’ of the Cinque Torre Italian mountain range. Italy has long been associated with fine, family-run ateliers in the suit business and we have partnered with one such long-standing family who work from a small town in Northern Italy. They work with well-known Savile Row tailors and high-end designer labels.

For those clients that are new to bespoke suiting, their first encounter is highly likely to be for their wedding. A wedding calls for an extra-special suit and not one you’d wear to an office. For bespoke veterans, this might be an opportunity to become more daring in both choice of cloth and style details.

THE CLOTH

We use Loro Piana fabrics to create our bespoke suits. Loro Piana have consistently produced high quality fabrics for centuries and so we’re very confident in their expertise. The Loro Piana mill began in the early 19th century in, Trivero, a part of Northern Italy renowned for its cloth production.

FAQs

Would you alter one of my existing suits?2018-08-28T16:02:31+00:00

We restrict ourselves only to making and altering Jenny Schwarz bespoke suits.

I’m not confident with my style. Will you be able to help me?2018-08-28T16:01:05+00:00

Absolutely. One of the things we’re very keen to do is to make you feel comfortable and for this experience to be, above all, fun. Some of our clients know exactly what they are looking for and find it easy choosing cloth. Some have an idea but need some questions answering and others come to us not knowing the difference between a peaked and notched lapel. It doesn’t matter.

What is the difference between ‘bespoke’, ‘made-to-measure’ and ‘off-the-peg’?2018-08-28T15:59:45+00:00

An ‘off-the-peg’ suit is one that conforms to a retailer’s standard sizing. They often leave a lot to be desired in terms of fit and there is obviously no way for the customer to have impact on the style. They will often be found in high-street shops where the quality can vary immensely. The pattern block from which the various sizes are cut will vary from brand to brand as will the style details- lapel width or jacket length for example.

A made-to-measure suit is one created from very few body measurements, using an altered pattern of the closest fitting standard size. There might be some room for customisation of the fabric and style details but the variation might be limited. A made-to-measure suit will usually cost more than an off-the-peg suit due to the extra work in fitting the client and the inability to order materials in bulk but this will vary brand to brand.

A bespoke suit is one with unlimited customisation in either fabric or style detail and with a much more comprehensive fitting process. A traditional Savile Row bespoke suit would encounter a basting stage where the jacket is worn by the customer in a semi constructed fashion. The alterations are conducted at this stage so at the final fitting there is very little to do. We take a full list of body measurements and use a base pattern to which we apply all alterations prior to cutting the cloth. We account for dropped shoulders, the curvature of the spine, whether you stoop or stand erect and for the pitch of your arms.

What is the meaning of the word ‘bespoke’?2018-08-28T15:57:44+00:00

Bespoke is a derivation of the old verb to bespeak. When something is spoken for, it is essentially claimed and refers to an order of goods. So, in tailoring terms you might speak for the cloth. You do so by covering some part of the cost of the order. Nowadays, bespoke has come to signify goods that are made to an individual’s specific requirements and the word’s usage has extended from tailoring and shoe making to furniture and cars. The term is less known in the United States where the word custom is instead used.

How do I book an appointment for a bespoke suit?2018-08-28T16:32:58+00:00

To book a consultation for a bespoke suit, go to our Book An Appointment page. We ask that you leave us a few details about what you’re looking for and we’ll get back to you to arrange a time to meet and talk. Alternatively, you can email us any questions you may have at studio@jennyschwarz.com.

Which fabrics do you use for bespoke suits?2018-08-28T15:54:01+00:00

We use Loro Piana fabrics to create our bespoke suits. Loro Piana have consistently produced high quality fabrics for centuries and so we’re very confident in their expertise. The Loro Piana mill began in the early 19th century in, Trivero, a part of Northern Italy renowned for its cloth production.

How many fittings do I need for a bespoke suit?2018-08-28T15:51:55+00:00

This can vary from client to client but we generally find that 2 to 3 fittings is the required amount. Once we’ve made your first RATHBONE suit and you’re happy with it, subsequent suits will require fewer fittings and will only generally be affected by a change in the client’s weight or by the fabric choice.

How is payment structured?2018-08-28T15:49:59+00:00

We require a 50% deposit at the time you place your order with us. Bespoke or custom goods usually follow this rule due to the nature of crafting something with a particular person in mind. It is by definition only suitable for that customer and, therefore, not re-salable. The remaining 50% is paid when the suit has been fitted to you and you are happy.

How long does a bespoke suit take to make?2018-08-28T15:48:57+00:00

From the initial consultation to your first fitting it usually takes about 4 to 6 weeks. You can expedite the delivery by covering an appropriate fee. Most clients need 1 or 2 fittings and usually only 1 once we have a perfected pattern for you. However, it can take longer so it’s best to work in as much time as you can afford us, especially if it is for a particular occasion.

Where are Jenny Schwarz suits made?2018-08-28T15:39:44+00:00

Jenny Schwarz bespoke suits are made in Northern Italy by a 100 year old, family-run business. The same atelier make suits for some bespoke tailors on Savile Row and some of the most renowned designer labels. The atelier is run by the younger generation having been passed on to them by their parents.

Having grown up in the industry, they are steeped in tailoring knowledge and are veritable experts on every element of a suit’s construction, fabric variation, obscure vintage tailoring machinery and high quality finishing. They have even developed their own buttons which goes to show the level of detail they exude, something which we are proud to bring to our clients.

Do you charge an initial consultation fee?2018-08-28T15:37:37+00:00

We offer free consultations to London based clients but we have to limit how far we allow ourselves to travel for this service. For a free consultation we will bring cloth books and example jackets and trousers. We can conduct all the measurements, go through the cloth choices and determine the style of suit you might like. At this time, you can either proceed with the order where a 50% deposit is required or choose to activate the order at a later date. We can keep all the details on record if you permit it.

Where are you based?2018-08-28T15:35:53+00:00

We are a London based tailoring company who travel to clients houses or offices primarily within the London area. We have no expensive business premises or bloated sales teams which means we can offer you high quality tailoring at much more reasonable prices.

We can travel further afield for pre-confirmed orders. For example, if you live outside the M25 we can conduct an initial conversation via email or phone. Then we would take a non-refundable deposit of £100.00 which upon order of a suit would be deducted from the total.

Or if you are traveling to London we can arrange to meet you at your hotel as we do with many of our existing International clients. We are in the process of organising tailoring trips to New York, Las Vegas and Munich as we have existing customers there. If you are in any of these cities please do send us an email at studio@rathbonebespoke.com to see when our next trip is being arranged.

How much does a bespoke suit cost?2018-08-28T15:34:38+00:00

The cost of a bespoke suit can vary highly depending on the cloth, the style details and how quickly you want it. There are various factors that affect the price of, for this example, a bespoke two-piece suit. Cloth is one of the main contributors to fluctuation in price. We use Italian Loro Piana cloth which can range from around £60.00 to £350.00 per metre. A two-piece suit will need between 3.0 and 6.0 metres of cloth depending on your height and weight.

Another factor that will have an effect on the cost of the suit is the type of style details you chose. Standard tailoring choices usually won’t incur any cost but, for example, patch pockets on a jacket using a striped or checked cloth takes longer to construct. The time is taken to carefully align the stripes or checks so that the overall pattern is as unaffected as possible.

A final factor that might affect the cost of a two-piece suit is how quickly you need it. If it is an urgent request and we need to ask for an expedited delivery from our Italian atelier, if it is manageable there will be an incurred cost to the suit and to the delivery.

With all that in mind, a two-piece suit is likely to cost you somewhere in the range of between £1650.00 and £2500.00.

FAQs

Would you alter one of my existing suits?2018-08-28T16:02:31+00:00

We restrict ourselves only to making and altering Jenny Schwarz bespoke suits.

I’m not confident with my style. Will you be able to help me?2018-08-28T16:01:05+00:00

Absolutely. One of the things we’re very keen to do is to make you feel comfortable and for this experience to be, above all, fun. Some of our clients know exactly what they are looking for and find it easy choosing cloth. Some have an idea but need some questions answering and others come to us not knowing the difference between a peaked and notched lapel. It doesn’t matter.

What is the difference between ‘bespoke’, ‘made-to-measure’ and ‘off-the-peg’?2018-08-28T15:59:45+00:00

An ‘off-the-peg’ suit is one that conforms to a retailer’s standard sizing. They often leave a lot to be desired in terms of fit and there is obviously no way for the customer to have impact on the style. They will often be found in high-street shops where the quality can vary immensely. The pattern block from which the various sizes are cut will vary from brand to brand as will the style details- lapel width or jacket length for example.

A made-to-measure suit is one created from very few body measurements, using an altered pattern of the closest fitting standard size. There might be some room for customisation of the fabric and style details but the variation might be limited. A made-to-measure suit will usually cost more than an off-the-peg suit due to the extra work in fitting the client and the inability to order materials in bulk but this will vary brand to brand.

A bespoke suit is one with unlimited customisation in either fabric or style detail and with a much more comprehensive fitting process. A traditional Savile Row bespoke suit would encounter a basting stage where the jacket is worn by the customer in a semi constructed fashion. The alterations are conducted at this stage so at the final fitting there is very little to do. We take a full list of body measurements and use a base pattern to which we apply all alterations prior to cutting the cloth. We account for dropped shoulders, the curvature of the spine, whether you stoop or stand erect and for the pitch of your arms.

What is the meaning of the word ‘bespoke’?2018-08-28T15:57:44+00:00

Bespoke is a derivation of the old verb to bespeak. When something is spoken for, it is essentially claimed and refers to an order of goods. So, in tailoring terms you might speak for the cloth. You do so by covering some part of the cost of the order. Nowadays, bespoke has come to signify goods that are made to an individual’s specific requirements and the word’s usage has extended from tailoring and shoe making to furniture and cars. The term is less known in the United States where the word custom is instead used.

How do I book an appointment for a bespoke suit?2018-08-28T16:32:58+00:00

To book a consultation for a bespoke suit, go to our Book An Appointment page. We ask that you leave us a few details about what you’re looking for and we’ll get back to you to arrange a time to meet and talk. Alternatively, you can email us any questions you may have at studio@jennyschwarz.com.

Which fabrics do you use for bespoke suits?2018-08-28T15:54:01+00:00

We use Loro Piana fabrics to create our bespoke suits. Loro Piana have consistently produced high quality fabrics for centuries and so we’re very confident in their expertise. The Loro Piana mill began in the early 19th century in, Trivero, a part of Northern Italy renowned for its cloth production.

How many fittings do I need for a bespoke suit?2018-08-28T15:51:55+00:00

This can vary from client to client but we generally find that 2 to 3 fittings is the required amount. Once we’ve made your first RATHBONE suit and you’re happy with it, subsequent suits will require fewer fittings and will only generally be affected by a change in the client’s weight or by the fabric choice.

How is payment structured?2018-08-28T15:49:59+00:00

We require a 50% deposit at the time you place your order with us. Bespoke or custom goods usually follow this rule due to the nature of crafting something with a particular person in mind. It is by definition only suitable for that customer and, therefore, not re-salable. The remaining 50% is paid when the suit has been fitted to you and you are happy.

How long does a bespoke suit take to make?2018-08-28T15:48:57+00:00

From the initial consultation to your first fitting it usually takes about 4 to 6 weeks. You can expedite the delivery by covering an appropriate fee. Most clients need 1 or 2 fittings and usually only 1 once we have a perfected pattern for you. However, it can take longer so it’s best to work in as much time as you can afford us, especially if it is for a particular occasion.

Where are Jenny Schwarz suits made?2018-08-28T15:39:44+00:00

Jenny Schwarz bespoke suits are made in Northern Italy by a 100 year old, family-run business. The same atelier make suits for some bespoke tailors on Savile Row and some of the most renowned designer labels. The atelier is run by the younger generation having been passed on to them by their parents.

Having grown up in the industry, they are steeped in tailoring knowledge and are veritable experts on every element of a suit’s construction, fabric variation, obscure vintage tailoring machinery and high quality finishing. They have even developed their own buttons which goes to show the level of detail they exude, something which we are proud to bring to our clients.

Do you charge an initial consultation fee?2018-08-28T15:37:37+00:00

We offer free consultations to London based clients but we have to limit how far we allow ourselves to travel for this service. For a free consultation we will bring cloth books and example jackets and trousers. We can conduct all the measurements, go through the cloth choices and determine the style of suit you might like. At this time, you can either proceed with the order where a 50% deposit is required or choose to activate the order at a later date. We can keep all the details on record if you permit it.

Where are you based?2018-08-28T15:35:53+00:00

We are a London based tailoring company who travel to clients houses or offices primarily within the London area. We have no expensive business premises or bloated sales teams which means we can offer you high quality tailoring at much more reasonable prices.

We can travel further afield for pre-confirmed orders. For example, if you live outside the M25 we can conduct an initial conversation via email or phone. Then we would take a non-refundable deposit of £100.00 which upon order of a suit would be deducted from the total.

Or if you are traveling to London we can arrange to meet you at your hotel as we do with many of our existing International clients. We are in the process of organising tailoring trips to New York, Las Vegas and Munich as we have existing customers there. If you are in any of these cities please do send us an email at studio@rathbonebespoke.com to see when our next trip is being arranged.

How much does a bespoke suit cost?2018-08-28T15:34:38+00:00

The cost of a bespoke suit can vary highly depending on the cloth, the style details and how quickly you want it. There are various factors that affect the price of, for this example, a bespoke two-piece suit. Cloth is one of the main contributors to fluctuation in price. We use Italian Loro Piana cloth which can range from around £60.00 to £350.00 per metre. A two-piece suit will need between 3.0 and 6.0 metres of cloth depending on your height and weight.

Another factor that will have an effect on the cost of the suit is the type of style details you chose. Standard tailoring choices usually won’t incur any cost but, for example, patch pockets on a jacket using a striped or checked cloth takes longer to construct. The time is taken to carefully align the stripes or checks so that the overall pattern is as unaffected as possible.

A final factor that might affect the cost of a two-piece suit is how quickly you need it. If it is an urgent request and we need to ask for an expedited delivery from our Italian atelier, if it is manageable there will be an incurred cost to the suit and to the delivery.

With all that in mind, a two-piece suit is likely to cost you somewhere in the range of between £1650.00 and £2500.00.