• This Francis bomber jacket is assembled using cloth from one of England’s oldest and historied mills. The cloth comes from A W Hainsworth in Pudsey who, among other incredible stories, made the fabric for the Battle of Waterloo soldiers in 1815 and invented the colour Khaki. The cloth itself is a navy barathea wool which holds that slightly textured hopsack weave and is extremely resilient making for a tough but elegant garment that will snap back into shape after wear. It's a lightweight barathea wool giving it more use for a greater part of the year.

    This lining is a 100% Viscose Military Twill, an extremely strong and durable lining seen in modern military uniform including the Queen’s Guards. It is made by the 65 year old British lining company, Bernstein & Banleys.

    The zip is antique brass in tone with a square ended slider. The metal is neither too shiny like nickel or gold zips and retains a traditional feel.

    With worsted barathea wool often employed in the construction of highly formal tailored garments like Dinner Jackets we thought it might play conversely well as one of the most iconic and popular casual jackets, the bomber. The light and natural sheen of the wool lends an air of quality but the most interesting element of the piece is the broken and reformed structure of the pattern pieces creating a chevron paneled effect. Without being too showy the jacket is now individual and intriguing. The stitched lines and and seams where panels meet draw the eye from the centre of the jacket, out towards the shoulder; a technique seen in classic tailoring by the manipulation of peak lapels or the placement of a button.

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    This Ferdinand jacket is assembled using cloth from one of England’s oldest and historied mills. The off-white merino melton wool comes from A W Hainsworth in Pudsey who, among other incredible stories, made the fabric for the Battle of Waterloo soldiers in 1815 and invented the colour Khaki. Merino wool has long been a mainstay in adventurous sporting pursuits due to its performance properties. It is a breathable, moisture wicking and body temperature regulating cloth that is so often emulated by modern sports fabrics.

    The lining is a 50/50 viscose cupro twill; a high-quality and robust choice from Bernstein & Banleys, a British lining company founded in 1953.

    We offset the merino melton with classic mother of pearl buttons. These off-white buttons occasionally catch the light and harmoniously reflect the cloth they sit on.

    This Ferdinand jacket in the A W Hainsworth off-white merino melton was created as part of a collaboration with the mill. It is an entirely unique piece shown at London Collections:Men and at the Concrete Studios Paris sales room to garner press attention for the collaboration and our brand. A W Hainsworth resonated with us because of the multi-purpose approach to their legacy. They create cloth for both practical and ceremonial cases, the former seen in firefighting, the military and transportation, the latter seen in guard uniform, theatre and even coffins. We felt they reflected the dichotomy we follow of Johan's precise and wild personality.

  • The main body of this Marlin jacket is created from a navy gabardine cotton. The weave is very tight and the treatment of the fibres give it a smooth look with a hint of natural sheen. Gabardine cloth was developed for the trenches of WWI in an effort to replace the heavy wool overcoats that held moisture and dirt rendering them inefficient. Lightweight but strong cotton gabardine proved to be superior and went on to become the foundation of early sport's clothing. In particular fishing because a wayward hook would not catch on the flat gabardine surface as it would with a fibrous wool.

    The shawl collar is created with a navy barathea wool from one of Englands most historied cloth mills, A W Hainsworth, who, among other incredible stories, made the fabric for the Battle of Waterloo soldiers in 1815 and invented the colour Khaki.

    The lining is a 50/50 viscose cupro twill; a high-quality and robust choice from Bernstein & Banleys, a British lining company founded in 1953.

    We offset the navy gabardine cotton with black lip mother of pearl buttons. Taken from the troca shell, these dark buttons occasionally catch the light and harmoniously reflect the cloth they sit on.

    The idea behind the Marlin jacket is to run that fine line between polar opposites. A formality is introduced in the form of the shawl collar and a ventless hem, both of which are common design features on Dinner Jackets. These ideas work in contrast to the navy gabardine cotton with its smooth, flat surface and utilitarian history. The A W Hainsworth navy barathea collar lifts the jacket adding some needed texture.

  • This Nestor jacket is assembled using cloth from one of England’s oldest and historied mills. The black melton wool comes from A W Hainsworth in Pudsey who, among other incredible stories, made the fabric for the Battle of Waterloo soldiers in 1815 and invented the colour Khaki. The cloth itself is a hardy, thick wool with a twill weave. The twill appearance is lost beneath the felted surface texture which is soft to the touch. The short melton fibres allow for a very slight but natural sheen.

    We chose a 100% diamond quilted cotton lining to add warmth for colder months.

    We offset the enduring wool with black lip mother of pearl buttons. Taken from the troca shell, these dark buttons occasionally catch the light and harmoniously reflect the cloth they sit on.

    Black melton is synonymous with the working man’s donkey jacket, while scarlet melton hunting coats have long been a symbol for the upper classes. Its use cases are unsurprising because the cloth is wind and water resistant and very robust. It was intriguing for the same cloth to have connotations with each end of the social scale and pleasant to note that the same properties were enjoyed by both. Our design is utilitarian instead of ceremonial and utterly timeless. The natural light sheen of the A W Hainsworth melton beside the mother of pearl buttons nudge the jacket away from literal work wear.

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