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    This Ferdinand jacket is assembled using cloth from one of England’s oldest and historied mills. The off-white merino melton wool comes from A W Hainsworth in Pudsey who, among other incredible stories, made the fabric for the Battle of Waterloo soldiers in 1815 and invented the colour Khaki. Merino wool has long been a mainstay in adventurous sporting pursuits due to its performance properties. It is a breathable, moisture wicking and body temperature regulating cloth that is so often emulated by modern sports fabrics.

    The lining is a 50/50 viscose cupro twill; a high-quality and robust choice from Bernstein & Banleys, a British lining company founded in 1953.

    We offset the merino melton with classic mother of pearl buttons. These off-white buttons occasionally catch the light and harmoniously reflect the cloth they sit on.

    This Ferdinand jacket in the A W Hainsworth off-white merino melton was created as part of a collaboration with the mill. It is an entirely unique piece shown at London Collections:Men and at the Concrete Studios Paris sales room to garner press attention for the collaboration and our brand. A W Hainsworth resonated with us because of the multi-purpose approach to their legacy. They create cloth for both practical and ceremonial cases, the former seen in firefighting, the military and transportation, the latter seen in guard uniform, theatre and even coffins. We felt they reflected the dichotomy we follow of Johan's precise and wild personality.

  • The main body of this Marlin jacket is created from a navy gabardine cotton. The weave is very tight and the treatment of the fibres give it a smooth look with a hint of natural sheen. Gabardine cloth was developed for the trenches of WWI in an effort to replace the heavy wool overcoats that held moisture and dirt rendering them inefficient. Lightweight but strong cotton gabardine proved to be superior and went on to become the foundation of early sport's clothing. In particular fishing because a wayward hook would not catch on the flat gabardine surface as it would with a fibrous wool.

    The shawl collar is created with a navy barathea wool from one of Englands most historied cloth mills, A W Hainsworth, who, among other incredible stories, made the fabric for the Battle of Waterloo soldiers in 1815 and invented the colour Khaki.

    The lining is a 50/50 viscose cupro twill; a high-quality and robust choice from Bernstein & Banleys, a British lining company founded in 1953.

    We offset the navy gabardine cotton with black lip mother of pearl buttons. Taken from the troca shell, these dark buttons occasionally catch the light and harmoniously reflect the cloth they sit on.

    The idea behind the Marlin jacket is to run that fine line between polar opposites. A formality is introduced in the form of the shawl collar and a ventless hem, both of which are common design features on Dinner Jackets. These ideas work in contrast to the navy gabardine cotton with its smooth, flat surface and utilitarian history. The A W Hainsworth navy barathea collar lifts the jacket adding some needed texture.

  • This Marlin jacket is made using a medium grey brushed cotton. Essentially the fibres have been lifted and treated to leave the surface smooth and velvet-like to the touch. This same procedure allows the cotton a very slight sheen and stops the cloth from absorbing light and appearing flat.

    The lining is a 50/50 viscose cupro twill; a high-quality and robust choice from Bernstein & Banleys, a British lining company founded in 1953.

    We offset the grey brushed cotton with black lip mother of pearl buttons. Taken from the troca shell, these dark buttons occasionally catch the light and harmoniously reflect the cloth they sit on.

    The idea behind the grey brushed cotton Marlin jacket is to run that fine line between polar opposites. A formality is introduced in the form of the shawl collar and a ventless hem, both of which are common design features on Dinner Jackets. These ideas work in contrast to the grey brushed cotton, firstly because grey is a colour associated with work suits and cotton is a cloth typical of vintage work wear. In a single design these ideas work harmoniously to create a versatile jacket

  • The fabric used on this Caplin jacket is unique to Jenny Schwarz. The 100% stone green cotton comes to us as any other fabric would. Before cutting the true pattern pieces we quilt over-sized versions using an in-house technique. Once quilted, the true pattern is cut and assembled as usual.

    The lining is a 50/50 viscose cupro twill; a high-quality and robust choice from Bernstein & Banleys, a British lining company founded in 1953.

    We offset the quilted cotton with black lip mother of pearl buttons. Taken from the troca shell, these dark buttons occasionally catch the light and harmoniously reflect the cloth they sit on.

    This Caplin jacket is a balancing act. We pick elements of formality from Dinner Jackets like the lack of vents and the shawl collar but construct them in unfamiliar cotton. Where wool would flow and drape with minimal creasing the cotton performs differently displaying its movement. As a counter balance the quilting gives a soft but rigid structure. The black lip mother of pearl buttons reflect the stone green of the cloth balancing a material often used in work wear.

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